The first thing I notice whenever I come across the bridge into Halifax is that it doesn’t really look like a city. Its tallest building, Fenwick Tower, is overshadowed by the Royal York Hotel, a building that for Toronto standards hasn’t been the tallest building since 1931. But then it’s not really fair to compare Halifax to other cities because it has something they don’t: friendly people (except the old gentleman who gave us the finger after running a red light – he must be a tourist).
Halifax, to me, is a reflection of the maritime people: unassuming, welcoming and simple. And by simple I mean they don’t complicate life with ostensible panoply, that’s for other cities. When you come across the bridge you are instead entering a world where people say what they mean (even if you can’t always work your head around the grammar) and generally like people, which in itself is unique. Be honest. When was the last time you went somewhere on vacation (in North America) and met people who were genuinely happy to hear where you were from?
Touristness
As far as attractions go, Halifax is a city best seen in the summer. Those two weeks at the end of July known to the rest of North America as the middle of summer, but to Nova Scotia, as summer. Otherwise you’ll end up running from one museum to another trying to avoid the wind and bitter cold, which is a shame because you’ll miss the beauty of the harbour.
We didn’t have a lot of time or money to spend so we decided on the Alexander Keith’s Brewery tour (oldest still functioning brewery in North America or world, I can’t remember, they gave us beer) and the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. I would recommend both, but for different reasons.
The museum is cheap ($5) and has a great collection of marine artifacts from the wars, as well as the Titanic and the Halifax explosion. You can take your time or move through it as fast as you want. Plus it’s just down the street from the brewery so it’s a cheap time killer if you’re waiting for a tour to start.
The brewery is a fun tour if you don’t mind a bit of schlock (they make believe they’re in the 1860s), but if you can bend 
your imagination it’s an entertaining way to see how they brew Keith’s, and have been brewing it for almost 200 years. Plus they give you beer. Although the last half of the tour seems to be a bit of a time suckage to justify the $20.95 price tag.
Drivability
Before you even get close enough to the harbour to smell the salt, the streets plummet towards the wharf at an angle that would rival San Francisco. Having just learned stick last year all I see are mini panic attacks at each light and stop sign. You generally don’t notice the steepness of the roads unless you’re biking up or forced to imagine how much it would cost if you rolled back in a manual too far.
It’s sad, but any city above the 30th parallel north is going to have more potholes than empty seats at a Blue Jays game. Halifax is no exception. You’re almost better off making a game of slaloming around the craters for points, it distracts you from getting pissed off.
Peopleness
You can always tell when you’re on a flight to the maritime provinces, it’s the only time you’ll see groups of strangers interacting, it’s a culture of talkers. When we stayed in St. John’s the hotel manager seemed reluctant to give us our keys. He was so genuinely happy to have someone to talk to he didn’t want us to leave, in fact, he kept asking questions as we slowly edged down the hallway. Halifax is like this only within a city.
Livability
As much as I love Halifax for the people I could never live here for the simple reality of the weather. Nova Scotia gets two weeks of summer at best. I remember being in Juneau in July, it was about 15 degrees and everyone was walking around in shorts and halter tops grinning like they’d won the lottery. That was their best.summer.ever. This is what Halifax reminds me of, I like heat and humidity too much. I would disappear under fifteen layers of clothes if I lived in Halifax and I just don’t own that much clothing.
Around the World in 500 Days 